The Great Bear Rainforest, on the central and north coast of British Columbia, is one of the largest intact temperate rainforests on Earth: a maze of fjords, islands and ancient cedar forests. It is home to grizzly bears, black bears and the rare white “spirit bear”, as well as coastal wolves, humpback whales and orcas. Much of it is the traditional territory of First Nations, who lead many of the region’s wildlife experiences.
At a glance
| Best time | May to June (grizzlies in estuaries) and September to October (salmon and spirit bears) |
| Getting there | Fly from Vancouver to Bella Coola, Bella Bella or Terrace, then boat or floatplane |
| Time needed | 4 to 7 days |
| Big draws | Spirit bears, grizzlies, coastal wolves, whales, rainforest |
| Good for | Wildlife photographers, cultural travellers |
The spirit bear
- The spirit bear, or Kermode bear, is a black bear with white fur, caused by a recessive gene. In some areas of the Great Bear Rainforest, particularly on Gribbell and Princess Royal islands, up to about a fifth to a third of black bears are white. See our American black bear profile.
- The Gitga’at and Kitasoo/Xai’xais First Nations have long protected the spirit bear, and Indigenous guides lead small groups to watch them fishing for salmon in autumn.
- Research suggests white bears may be more successful at catching salmon in daylight, because fish see them less easily against the sky.
Grizzly bears
- In spring (May to June), grizzlies graze on sedges in river estuaries; in autumn (September to October), they fish for salmon in rivers. See our brown bear profile.
- Viewing is from boats and platforms with expert guides.
- British Columbia banned grizzly bear trophy hunting in 2017.
Other wildlife
- Coastal wolves (“sea wolves”) that swim between islands and eat salmon and seafood. See our grey wolf profile.
- Humpback whales (bubble-net feeding), orcas, fin whales, Pacific white-sided dolphins and sea lions.
- Bald eagles and salmon in huge numbers in autumn.
Protection
After years of campaigns and negotiations between First Nations, environmental groups, industry and government, agreements finalised in 2016 protected about 85% of the Great Bear Rainforest’s forests from industrial logging.
When to go
- May to June: grizzlies on estuaries; whales arriving.
- July to August: whales, wolves; fewer bears on the rivers.
- September to October: the salmon run, with grizzlies and spirit bears fishing.
Getting there
Fly from Vancouver to Bella Coola, Bella Bella or Terrace, then continue by boat or floatplane to lodges. Some visitors join small expedition ships.
Where to stay
Remote lodges, many owned or co-run by First Nations, and small expedition boats. Book well ahead.
Frequently asked questions
Where can I see a spirit bear? On Gribbell Island and parts of Princess Royal Island, with Indigenous guides, usually in September and October.
Is the spirit bear a separate species? No. It is a white form of the American black bear, caused by a recessive gene.
When is the best time to see grizzlies? May to June in estuaries, and September to October at salmon rivers.
Is it expensive? Yes. Remote lodges and floatplanes make it a premium trip, but visits directly support First Nations communities.
Related guides
- Brooks Falls, Katmai: watching bears catch salmon
- Orca watching on Vancouver Island
- Banff and Jasper wildlife guide
- Animal profiles: American black bear, Brown bear, Sockeye salmon
Cover photo: Maximilian Helm from Dresden, Deutschland, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons